Waterloo
October 25, 2009
Quick Facts | What’s the Story? | Photos | Entertain Me
| Try Eating and Drinking @ | Digging Deeper
Quick Facts
- Waterloo station was built in 1848. It’s the UK’s largest station.
- It’s served by the Bakerloo, Northern, Jubilee and Waterloo and City lines.
- It has 25 escalators, more than any other underground station.
- The grand entrance on Mepham Street was intended as a war memorial. The ‘Victory Arch’ commemorates railway workers who died during the First and Second World Wars.
- Waterloo used to be home to the Eurostar trains but they’ve now decamped to shiny new St. Pancras.
- The station closes to the public after the last train of the day has gone.
- The station was named after nearby Waterloo Bridge, which was in turn named in honour of the British victory over the French.
- The nearby Stalinist Shell centre used to be the highest ‘skyscraper’ in London.
- The London Eye is 443ft (135m) high and has 32 pods, one for each London Borough.
- Under the former MI6 headquarters on Westminster Bridge Road, is a secret tube station linked to the Bakerloo line.
What’s the Story?
The Clock
In the centre of the station, a large four-faced clock hangs from the ceiling. It’s always been a traditional rendez-vous point for friends and lovers, and ‘Meet you under the clock’ is a familiar phrase to most Londoners. In the popular BBC comedy series Only Fools and Horses, Del Boy meets Raquel for the first time at Waterloo station.
Circus Tricks
In 1769, on retirement from the military, Philip Astley began to stage equestrian performances in an arena near Waterloo station. His popular shows and stunts were executed in what he worked out to be an optimally-sized 42-foot ring. To keep things interesting, he added a few clowns and some other performers and the modern circus was born.
Waterloo Bridge
Waterloo Bridge, originally known as the Strand Bridge, opened in 1817 and gained a bit of a reputation as a popular suicide spot. It was demolished in 1936 to make way for a studier replacement which was finally completed in 1945. Because of the war, the workforce on the project was mainly female and so it was dubbed ‘the ladies bridge’.
Some of the stones from the original bridge were sent to New Zealand and used to build a monument to a dog called Paddy the Wanderer in the city of Wellington. Paddy was a popular stray ginger terrier who roamed Wellington’s waterfront in the 1930s and became well loved by the harbour workers.
The location of Waterloo bridge, at a bend in the river, makes for brilliant views in both directions. The view was also the inspiration for the Kinks’ song ‘Waterloo Sunset’.
The Old Vic
The Old Vic Theatre, probably best known at the moment for its association with Kevin Spacey, lies just south-east of Waterloo station. The original building dates to 1818 but underwent restorative work following damage caused during the blitz. It’s Grade II listed and has enjoyed a recent resurgence in popularity.
Now That’s What I Call Terminal
On Westminster Bridge Road you can still find the entrance to the London Necropolis Railway which opened in 1854 to cope with the number of corpses during a cholera outbreak. The deceased were taken out of the city to Brookwood Cemetery in Surrey. At Brookwood, there were divided platforms for Anglicans and non-conformists and a handy bar which apparently displayed a sign declaring ‘Spirits served here’. The service stopped operating when Waterloo was bombed in 1941 and never resumed.
Naughty Old Oxo
The art deco Oxo tower building, purchased by the beef stock company in 1920 is a short walk east from the London Eye. On acquisition, the company wanted to add electric lights spelling out OXO but weren’t allowed due to advertising laws. As a work-around, the clever architect integrated the letters into the window panes instead.
There’s a free public viewing gallery on the top floor.
The South Bank Lion
The site that the Southbank Centre now occupies used to be home to the Red Lion Brewery. Above the brewery’s entrance stood a beautiful stone lion painted red. The brewery was demolished in 1951 but the lion was rescued and moved to its current location on the south-eastern side of Westminster bridge. It’s no longer red.
Festival of Britain
The Festival of Britain was a kind of post-war pick-me-up for the whole country. Exhibitions took place in London and around the country. London had taken a battering during the blitz and it was hoped that the festival would lift spirits and get everyone thinking positively about the future.
The South Bank was the centre of the festival in London and involved the construction of the Southbank centre. A steel tower shaped like a cigar was also exhibited (although scrapped by Churchill in 1952). It was named ‘Skylon’, hence the name of the new bar in the Royal Festival Hall.
Death by Umbrella
On 7th September 1978, Bulgarian dissident Georgi Markovwas was jabbed in the leg with an umbrella while waiting for a bus on Waterloo Bridge. The male culprit, who spoke in a foreign accent, apologised and strolled off. Georgi developed a high fever and died an agonising death. A platinum bullet containing poison was later found in his leg and his assassination was attributed to the Bulgarian secret police.
The All Seeing Eye
The London Eye, designed by David Marks and Julia Barfield (a husband and wife team) opened in March 2000, three months later than planned. Tony Blair opened it officially on 31st Dec 1999 but in true British style, technical problems meant it couldn’t open properly until March.
It’s become the most popular tourist attraction in the UK (of those you have to pay for) and pulls in over 3.5million visitors every year. It used to be the biggest Ferris wheel in the world but China and Singapore have both now outdone us with bigger ones. It has 32 pods which represent each of the London Boroughs and a rotation takes about 30mins. On a good day, you can see up to 40km in every direction.
The Skateboard Graveyard
The area underneath the Queen Elizabeth Hall has become an unofficial skate park. Wander down from the London Eye and spend ten minutes watching them do their thing.
As you walk across the Hungerford Bridge towards the north bank of the river, look out for the skateboard ‘graveyard’ down below on one of the bridge supports. There’s a scattering of broken skateboards and trainers, and now also a plaque on the bridge itself to ‘commemorate’ their loss.
Photos
Entertain Me
London Eye
http://www.londoneye.com/
For great views when the weather’s good. Buy one of their guidebooks otherwise you won’t know what anything is.
Open daily. £17.50 adult, £8.70 child.
Southbank Centre
http://www.southbankcentre.co.uk/
Includes the Royal Festival Hall, Royal National Theatre and the Hayward Gallery. Get tickets for theatre, music and dance performances or look at some art.
The Royal National Theatre building was brutally described by Prince Charles in 1988 as “a clever way of building a nuclear power station in the middle of London without anyone objecting”. Nevertheless, it’s been Grade II listed since 1994.
Gabriel’s Wharf and the Oxo Tower
Gabriel’s Wharf is a pretty market-like-enclave close to the Oxo Tower. Garages have been converted into craft shops and retail design studios, revitalising a previously derelict area of the South Bank. Relax at the cafes and restaurants overlooking the river.
There’s also an art gallery in the Oxo Tower building and a free public viewing gallery on the top floor.
The Old Vic
See at show at Kevin Spacey’s playground.
Prices vary.
http://www.oldvictheatre.com/
BFI Imax
http://www.bfi.org.uk/whatson/bfi_imax
If you like films in 3D, this place has the largest screen in the country. Prices vary. Open daily.
London Aquarium
http://www.sealife.co.uk/london
One of Europe’s largest marine life collections, they’ve got everything from sharks to clownfish. Good one for kids.
Open daily. £16.00 adult, £11.75 child.
The Dali Universe
http://www.thedaliuniverse.com/
Popular exhibition hosted in County Hall and the reason for the surrealist sculptures outside.
Open daily. £14.00 adult, £9.00 children
BFI Southbank
http://www.bfi.org.uk/
Screens some slightly obscure films and hosts various film-related talks and events.
Try Eating and Drinking @
Fire station
149 Waterloo Road
Edwardian fire station converted into a gastrobar. Restaurant at the back, drinking at the front. Gets busy but conveniently located.
Skylon
Royal Festival Hall, Belvedere Road
As the name suggests, beautiful panoramic views of the north-bank skyline. Cocktail bar and modern European restaurant.
http://www.skylonrestaurant.co.uk/
Cubana
48 Lower Marsh
Fun latino bar with great cocktails and good food.
http://www.cubana.co.uk/
Waterloo Bar and Kitchen
131 Waterloo Road
Simple modern European food. Next to the Old Vic theatre so good for a pre-show meal.
http://www.barandkitchen.co.uk/
Baltic
74 Blackfriars Road
Seasonal Eastern-European fare with 47 different vodkas on offer.
http://www.balticrestaurant.co.uk/
Bangalore Express
103-105 Waterloo Road
Tasty informal Indian food. Climb a ladder and eat in one of the raised booths.
http://www.bangaloreexpress.co.uk/home.aspx
Anchor and Hope
36 The Cut
Popular gastropub with the focus firmly on the food.
Canteen
Royal Festival Hall, Belvedere Road
Stylish British food including traditional classics with contemporary twists.
http://www.canteen.co.uk/
Feng Sushi
Festival Terrace, Belvedere Road
Japanese chain well worth a visit. Unusual sushi and healthy salads.
http://www.fengsushi.co.uk/
Ping Pong
Festival terrace, Belvedere Road
A beautifully laid out restaurant and bar from the popular dim sum chain.
http://www.pingpongdimsum.com/
Oxo Tower Restaurant Bar & Brasserie
8th floor, Oxo Tower Wharf, Barge House Street
Rooftop restaurant with fantastic views and eclectic food. Owned by Harvey Nichols and probably one for special occasions only.
http://www.harveynichols.com/output/Page128.asp
For full listings and reviews, go to Time Out London, Top Table or Square Meal.
Digging Deeper
Lambeth Marsh
Until the 19th century, the Waterloo area was mostly marshland. Lower Marsh (previously Lambeth Marsh) is a street running east-west to the south of waterloo station and a remnant of one of the oldest settlements in the area. Villages are thought to have evolved from an existing road through the marshlands which could date back to as early as Roman times.
The construction of Waterloo station changed the area forever.
A shipwreck
Although Roman Londinium was situated much farther to the east on the north bank of river, a 3rd century Roman ship was discovered in 1910 on the site where County Hall now stands.
The oak ship was dated using dendrochronology and related ceramics and coins indicated that it was lost soon after its construction. Some of the timbers from the ship are now held in the Museum of London.
Tags: County Hall Roman Boat, London Aquarium, London Eye, London Necropolis Railway, Oxo tower, Southbank centre, Waterloo, Waterloo Bridge, Waterloo station
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