The Guide to Underground London

Tower Hill

November 18, 2009

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Quick Facts

Tower Hill station is served by the Circle and District lines.
It was originally located further west and called Mark Lane station (renamed Tower Hill in 1946).
In 1967, it was re-established to the east, on the site of another tube station (‘Tower of London’) which had been in use in the early days of the Underground.
The station entrance is close to one of the largest surviving sections of London’s Roman wall.
The statue of a Roman emperor (probably Trajan) that stands in front of the wall is an Italian copy rescued from a Southampton scrap yard.
Tower Hill was the site of public executions for some of the unfortunate prisoners held in the Tower of London. The last man to be beheaded here was Lord Lovat in 1747. The last people to be hanged were two prostitutes and a one-armed soldier.
At the bottom of Tower Hill is the entrance to Tower Subway, the first tube tunnel under the Thames (the Thames Tunnel being the first tunnel).
The Tower of London was started by William the Conqueror as a simple watchtower.
The official name for the Tower of London Beefeaters is Yeomen Warden.
Legend has it that if the ravens ever leave the tower, the kingdom will fall.
Tower Bridge was designed by Horace Jones and opened in 1894. The two towers each stand 213ft high.

What’s the story?

The Tower of London
This perfectly preserved medieval fortress was started shortly after the Battle of Hastings in 1066, when William the Conqueror ordered the construction of a temporary watchtower. Over time it evolved into a complex of several buildings surrounded by a thick outer wall and a moat (now dry).

The Tower is most commonly thought of as a prison but it’s also served as a palace, a mint, a royal armoury, an observatory and even a zoo. It’s also been home to the crown jewels since around 1327.

The White Tower and the Bloody Tower
The White Tower (originally whitewashed) is the original Norman tower and stands in the centre of the complex. Of its four turrets, three are square and one is circular (the circular one accommodates a spiral staircase). It now houses displays of armour and special exhibitions.

The Bloody Tower was first called the Garden Tower but renamed in the 16th century due to the dark events that took place within its walls. It was the scene for the murder of two young princes, Edward V and his brother Richard, aged 12 and 10 respectively. In 1483, their uncle, Richard of Gloucester, suggested that they moved to the Tower for their own safety following the death of their father. They disappeared suddenly, leaving the way clear for their uncle to become Richard III. In 1674 two little skeletons were found at the foot of the tower but their murder was never solved. The ghosts of the two boys are said to haunt the Tower.

Walter Raleigh was also imprisoned in the Bloody Tower for nearly thirteen years over three separate stints. He was released from his second stint to take part in an expedition to South American to help find gold. But on the condition that he didn’t attack the Spanish. He didn’t comply and on his return was unceremoniously thrown back in the Tower and eventually beheaded at Westminster.

Traitors Gate
Following their trials in the courts of Westminster, unlucky prisoners were taken down river by boat and delivered to the Tower through what came to be known as Traitors Gate.

The Chopping Block and Severance Pay
Many people met their end at the Tower of London. Some of the most famous to be beheaded were Anne Boleyn, Catherine Howard and Lady Jane Grey. They, and other nobles, were executed within the Tower walls on the green. More common criminals and those who would draw a crowd were taken out and up onto Tower Hill to be executed in front of an excitable audience.

When some unfortunate person was sentenced to death by beheading at the Tower, they were required to pay their executioner to do the deed. On their final day in the world, they would get dressed for death and take a bag of money with them out to the chopping block. If the bag was suitably heavy, a sharp axe was used. If not, it was a blunt one.

The Crown Jewels
The crown jewels are kept in the Jewel House under armed guard. They are priceless but have been on display to the public since the reign of Charles II. A mixture of ceremonial crowns, orbs, swords and other sparkly things, the jewels have always been an integral part of the coronation process. Visitors today are whisked past swiftly on moving walkways.

They were almost stolen in 1671 when Colonel Blood knocked out a guard and stuck a crown under his cloak. Meanwhile one of his associates stuffed an orb down his breeches and another tried to saw a sceptre in half. They almost got away with it but were caught at the last moment. Unbelievably Blood was pardoned and given a pension.

An Unusual Zoo and Those Ravens
The thirteenth century saw the beginnings of a menagerie at the Tower. Henry III was presented with three leopards by the Holy Roman Emperor in 1235. This was later followed by a polar bear from the King of Norway and an elephant from the King of France. Not easy gifts to return. The bear was often seen fishing on the banks of the Thames (chained and muzzled of course).

Further additions to the animals were made and the spectacle was opened to the public. It finally closed in the 1830s and all the animals, except the ravens, were moved to the newly built London Zoo.

Legend goes that at least six ravens must remain at the Tower otherwise the Kingdom will fall. Strange considering their presence is generally thought a bad omen. The ravens at the Tower are nurtured from birth and well cared for by the Ravenmaster (one of the Yeoman wardens). They each have names such as Thor and Baldrick and remain protected by a decree of King Charles II.

The Yeomen (and woman)
The Yeomen Warders, or Beefeaters as they’re known, are the ceremonial guards of the Tower of London. There are 35 of them, 34 men and 1 woman, and they all live in the Tower grounds. Their role is meant to involve guarding prisoners and keeping watch over the crown jewels but they also do a great job as animated tour guides, giving visitors entertaining tours of the Tower grounds.

Nobody really knows where the term ‘Beefeater’ came from but one explanation is that in the past they were paid in rations of meat. They like to joke that these days they’re paid peanuts instead.

What’s Your Beef?
The first (and only) female Beefeater, Moira Cameron was appointed in 2007, to the evident displeasure of some of her colleagues. She had served the requisite 22 years in the military and was fully qualified to take on the role. However, in 2009 it emerged that she’d been subjected to a campaign of bullying and harassment by some of the other Beefeaters. Two of them were suspended as a result.

The Tower Subway
Advancements in tunnelling technology and the invention of the ‘tunnelling shield’ by Mark Brunel led to the construction of the Thames Tunnel and the Tower Subway. The Thames Tunnel was built first and runs between Wapping and Rotherhithe. The process took 18 years and was finally completed in 1843, intended for use by horse-drawn carriages. It was hazardous process and Mark’s son, Isambard Kingdom Brunel almost drowned when the tunnel flooded.

The Tower Subway runs under the Thames from Tower Hill and was the first ‘tube’ tunnel under the river. Passengers were hauled back and forth by cable cars but the service was unpopular and lasted only three months. The subway was converted to a walkway but closed after the construction of Tower Bridge. It now houses power lines.

Tower Bridge
One of London’s most striking landmarks and often mistaken for modest old London Bridge, Tower Bridge spans the Thames close to the Tower and dominates the skyline in all it’s neo-gothic glory. It was completed in 1894 to a design by architect Horace Jones. The construction was overseen by engineer John Wolfe-Barry.

It was Wolfe-Barry who came up with the idea for a bascule bridge to deal with the issue of headroom for river traffic. The bridge was built using a steel frame which was then clad in Cornish granite and Portland stone, a technique which came in for criticism at the time. The two towers each stand 213ft high and are connected by walkways.

The walkways were always intended for public use but closed in 1909 after they became a bit too popular with prostitutes, pickpockets and the suicidal. They didn’t reopen until 1982 when the Tower Bridge Exhibition was launched. Visitors can now get up there to enjoy the views and also visit the engine room on the southern end of the bridge.

Jumping the Bascules
The raising of the Tower Bridge bascules is something worth seeing and you can find the scheduled times on the official website.

In 1952, passengers on a No.78 bus got more than they’d bargained for when they found themselves caught on the south bascule as it was starting to rise. A temp watchman was filling in that day and something to do with the signalling to clear the bridge went wrong. Albert Gunton, the driver of the bus, had to make a split-second choice. He sped up and jumped the gap, landing safely on the north bascule which had not yet begun to rise. He was awarded the princely sum of £10 for his quick thinking.

St. Katherine’s Dock
An unexpected find, just east of the Tower, St. Katherine’s Dock brings a little bit of St. Tropez to London (on a sunny day). Completed in 1828, the dock was constructed on the site of the medieval remains of St. Katherine’s hospital, more than a thousand ‘insanity’ houses and a brewery – all of which were demolished. Over 11,00 people were displaced and huge public protests took place as a result.

St Katherine’s handled valuable cargoes and the warehouses were built lose to the dock walls to make the unloading process quicker. Unfortunately it never did too well financially and suffered heavy bombing during the Blitz. It closed in 1968 and was sold. A lease was then granted to construction firm Taylor Woodrow who transformed the area into a luxury marina, along with the huge concrete block that is the four star Tower Thistle Hotel.

Photos

Entertain Me!

The Tower of London
See it all for yourself. Check out the towers, the jewels, the ravens and the Yeomen Warders. The Yeomen run frequent guided tours which last about 45mins and are an absolute must.
Open daily. Adults £17.00, children £9.50.
http://www.hrp.org.uk/toweroflondon/

Tower Bridge Exhibition
Tower Bridge Road, SE1 2UP
Exhibition inside ‘the most famous bridge in the world’. Fantastic views from the walkways.
Open daily. Adults £7.00, children £3.00.
http://www.towerbridge.org.uk/TBE/EN/

St. Katherine’s Dock
Look at the boats, enjoy a meal or have a drink at the Dickens Inn.

All Hallows By The Tower
Byward Street, EC3R 5BJ
The oldest church in the City of London.
http://www.ahbtt.org.uk/

Try Eating and Drinking @

Medieval Banquet
Ivory House, St Katherine’s Dock, E1W 1BP
Fighting knights, dancing wenches and a four-course medieval banquet.
£45 adult, £30 child
http://www.medievalbanquet.com/home.php

The Dickens Inn
St Katherine’s Dock, E1 1UH
Atmospheric old pub with two different restaurants, one serving pizza and the other modern European.

Tower Thistle Hotel
St Katherine’s Way, E1W 1LD
The hotel has various restaurant, bars and lounges, all with great views.
http://www.guoman.com/hotels/united_kingdom/london/the_tower/index.html

Ping Pong Dim Sum
St Katherine’s Way, E1W 1BA
http://www.pingpongdimsum.com/

Prohibition Bar and Grill
Unit 1 Tower Bridge House, St Katherine’s Dock, E1W 1AA
Good quality grill food, cocktails and entertainment.
http://www.prohibition.uk.com/

Digging Deeper

Tower Hill lies in one of the oldest parts of London. Archaeological evidence indicates settlement in the area as far back as the Bronze Age.

The London Wall
One of the largest surviving sections of the wall the Romans built to surround and protect Londinium stands close to the entrance of Tower Hill tube. It was built using Kentish ragstone and in its day was nearly 2 miles in length, up to nine feet thick and about 18 feet high.

In front of the wall stands a statue of a Roman emporer, rescued from a Southampton scrap yard by a vicar. The statue is believed to be an eighteenth century Italian copy which could be Trajan.

A Huge Cathedral
Traces of a huge Roman cathedral at Tower Hill were discovered during excavations in 1995. Archaeologists believe that it was built some time between 350-400 AD but was destroyed by fire somewhere around 500AD.

All Hallows By the Tower
This church is said to be the oldest in the City of London. The original Saxon church was founded here in 675AD and an arch from this remains, underneath which lies a Roman pavement.

All Hallows survived the Great Fire of London but was badly damaged in the Blitz. It was restored and rededicated in 1957.

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Tags: Beefeaters, Bloody Tower, Crown jewels, London Wall, Severance pay, St Katherine's Dock, Tower Bridge, Tower Hill, Tower of London, Tower subway, Traitors Gate, White Tower, Yeomen Warders
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